Set in stone ... Banteay Srei Temple near Siem Reap.

Set in stone ... Banteay Srei Temple near Siem Reap. Photo: Getty Images

Kate Edgley joins a meditative 'exploration path' through temples, caves and ancient sites.

I'm on top of Phnom Kulen, a sacred mountain, in my cossie in the pouring rain. I'm teetering at the edge of the River of a Thousand Lingas beside a wide waterfall, being splashed by a group of pilgrims who sit in the holy water wearing their saris and laughing. Soriya, my fully dressed guide, has grabbed my hand and pulled me along behind, picking his way among the boulders until we are up against the heavy rush of the waterfall.

"One, two, three ... " and into the pounding downflow we go. We stand for a moment in the gap on the other side of the waterfall catching our breath before emerging to applause, clicking cameras and more laughter from the pilg